Armenia: a World of Reminiscence
Աչքը ինչ տեսնար, սիրտը չի մոռնար : "Whatever the eyes see, the heart won't forget" Armenian adage
The first country I would like to introduce to you, Armenia, deserves this special place not because it makes sense alphabetically - although this is a lovely coincidence - but because I have an intimate link to its culture, its people, and its History. My parents gave me the name of Anahid, an ancient Armenian goddess worshiped before Christianity became the state religion, a few years before Rome. Even though this exotic-sounding name causes some troubles to people at pronouncing or remembering it, I am grateful they chose it: it linked me for ever to my Armenian origins that I inherited from my mother side. The smell and taste of the food, the sound of the liturgy and the traditional songs, the importance of the family boundaries, the special shape of the churches, the singing of the language, are familiar reminders of this inheritance. Of course, as part of the forth generation in the Armenian diaspora, I feel the result of a long lasting distance from the homeland, and I felt this erosion of Time even more when I went there for the first time. But for the first time too, people could immediately understand and pronounce my name. I felt half home...
The first country I would like to introduce to you, Armenia, deserves this special place not because it makes sense alphabetically - although this is a lovely coincidence - but because I have an intimate link to its culture, its people, and its History. My parents gave me the name of Anahid, an ancient Armenian goddess worshiped before Christianity became the state religion, a few years before Rome. Even though this exotic-sounding name causes some troubles to people at pronouncing or remembering it, I am grateful they chose it: it linked me for ever to my Armenian origins that I inherited from my mother side. The smell and taste of the food, the sound of the liturgy and the traditional songs, the importance of the family boundaries, the special shape of the churches, the singing of the language, are familiar reminders of this inheritance. Of course, as part of the forth generation in the Armenian diaspora, I feel the result of a long lasting distance from the homeland, and I felt this erosion of Time even more when I went there for the first time. But for the first time too, people could immediately understand and pronounce my name. I felt half home...
Sevan Lake: one of the biggest high-altitude lakes in the world
One of the most astonishing views I have ever seen was the vast and dazzling blue stretch of Lake Sevan. It is known for being one of the biggest high-altitude lakes in the world. Depending on where you stand, it is impossible to see the opposite shore; it seems like you are in front of a small sea. Its color answers the variations of the weather, the flows of the water, and the composition of the sky. This mirror of the blue Infinity is the explanation my grandpa gave me when I asked about the blue color of the flag, telling me the Armenians were very proud of their lake. I do not know whether it is true or not, but I suddenly understood why this explanation came up.
Apart from gazing at the water for hours, there also are plenty of wanders you can make around that area. The two remaining churches of the Sevanavank monastery, Sourp Arakelots and Sourp Astvatsatsin, are important pieces of the archaeological landscape of the country. More restful would be a dip in the lake: you will spend some time with the locals, especially women with their children, refreshing themselves in the water with their clothes still on.
Apart from gazing at the water for hours, there also are plenty of wanders you can make around that area. The two remaining churches of the Sevanavank monastery, Sourp Arakelots and Sourp Astvatsatsin, are important pieces of the archaeological landscape of the country. More restful would be a dip in the lake: you will spend some time with the locals, especially women with their children, refreshing themselves in the water with their clothes still on.
Mount Ararat : geographically in Turkey, it still remains a central symbol.
"And in the seventh month, on the seventeenth day of the month, the ark came to rest on the mountains of Ararat". Mount Ararat is indeed mentioned in the Bible, in which it is said Noah took refuge from the deluge in its flank. As part of the ancient Armenian territories - now located in the present-day Turkish boarders - and because of this biblical mention, Mount Ararat is a cornerstone symbol of the Armenian identity.
In fact, as you walk through the streets in Yerevan, you will come across little tourist shops selling countless reproductions of it. Even if you look at some national emblems, such as the flag of the football team and the coat-of-arms, Mount Ararat stands proudly on them. It is thus used both in the political and popular arenas. Ararat also inhabits the artistic realm of Armenia and its diaspora, where poems, tales, paintings, songs and movies resort to this symbol as they make us think about Memory, Justice, Freedom, or Eternity.
To believe or not in the biblical tale does not change one thing: any traveler who has the chance to admire it is filled with amazement at the sight of this quiet giant. Also called Masis by the Armenians, this dormant and snow-topped volcano consists of two peaks, one bigger than the other. On this picture we catch sight of Great Ararat that exhibits its white cap, while Little Ararat is hiding under the fuzzy hedge. They are respectively five and four kilometers tall
In fact, as you walk through the streets in Yerevan, you will come across little tourist shops selling countless reproductions of it. Even if you look at some national emblems, such as the flag of the football team and the coat-of-arms, Mount Ararat stands proudly on them. It is thus used both in the political and popular arenas. Ararat also inhabits the artistic realm of Armenia and its diaspora, where poems, tales, paintings, songs and movies resort to this symbol as they make us think about Memory, Justice, Freedom, or Eternity.
To believe or not in the biblical tale does not change one thing: any traveler who has the chance to admire it is filled with amazement at the sight of this quiet giant. Also called Masis by the Armenians, this dormant and snow-topped volcano consists of two peaks, one bigger than the other. On this picture we catch sight of Great Ararat that exhibits its white cap, while Little Ararat is hiding under the fuzzy hedge. They are respectively five and four kilometers tall
Khor Virap: a monastery built in the breathtaking Ararat plain in the 7th century.
Unique. This is the most suitable and representative word for this monastery.
Its location in the Ararat plain offers an amazing decor. In fact, if you are lucky to come when no mist is to be seen on the horizon, you will be able to admire the still and colossal Mount Ararat in the background.
he legend bound to this monastry is captivating as well, since Saint Grigor the Illuminator was imprisoned at this very place by Tiridate IV, who persecuted the Christians in the 5th Century. Grigor survived for thirteen years, and finally healed the King who converted to Christianity. From this date, Armenia became the first Nation to adopt a state religion. You can still see his prison, a kind of "deep well", Khor Virap.
Its location in the Ararat plain offers an amazing decor. In fact, if you are lucky to come when no mist is to be seen on the horizon, you will be able to admire the still and colossal Mount Ararat in the background.
he legend bound to this monastry is captivating as well, since Saint Grigor the Illuminator was imprisoned at this very place by Tiridate IV, who persecuted the Christians in the 5th Century. Grigor survived for thirteen years, and finally healed the King who converted to Christianity. From this date, Armenia became the first Nation to adopt a state religion. You can still see his prison, a kind of "deep well", Khor Virap.
Yerevan: a place of disconcerting chaos ...
Beside these exceptional landscapes and monuments in the countryside, the urban life also offers a lot to see and think about. Yerevan for example, the capital of this ex-soviet country, with a population of more than one million people, is one of the world's oldest cities that has been continuously inhabited. There, the contrasting atmospheres and sights are bewildering: no beggars, high-heels on the feet of every girl and make-up on each of their faces, and no man wearing casual sneakers. These are some social features cohabiting with an important poverty and dilapidated suburbs, or even slums.
As the travelers walk through off-centered streets, they certainly are disconcerted by the chaotic aspect of some streets and buildings, mouldered for a long time. An old church arising in a deserted square; tapestry sagging on the walls of demolished houses; out of order electrical cables criss-crossing in the sky, creating aerial labyrinths. In fact, since the fall of the Soviet Union, Yerevan, and Armenia in general, has come through some difficult times, trying to deal with their recently recovered autonomy and the necessary organization that Freedom implies.
As the travelers walk through off-centered streets, they certainly are disconcerted by the chaotic aspect of some streets and buildings, mouldered for a long time. An old church arising in a deserted square; tapestry sagging on the walls of demolished houses; out of order electrical cables criss-crossing in the sky, creating aerial labyrinths. In fact, since the fall of the Soviet Union, Yerevan, and Armenia in general, has come through some difficult times, trying to deal with their recently recovered autonomy and the necessary organization that Freedom implies.
... and of joyful moments: here on the Republic Square.
However, city birds will still find something to satisfy their urban needs. Full of delicious restaurants, nice terraces, museums, markets, and architectural soviet reminiscences, Yerevan is a puzzling capital that deserves to be visited. If you aspire to discover original traditional dishes, learn about the unique Armenian alphabet, see how a soviet city was built and organized, or simply meander through the gold and spices markets, then Yerevan is the place to be.
It is worth going out at night and spend an hour watching the great lit fountain on the Republic square: ears and eyes will be delighted, as the water changes into fireworks and loud speakers play traditional and not-so-traditional music. You should also have a look around you to see beautiful dressed-up women, hoping to find their Prince Charming.
It is worth going out at night and spend an hour watching the great lit fountain on the Republic square: ears and eyes will be delighted, as the water changes into fireworks and loud speakers play traditional and not-so-traditional music. You should also have a look around you to see beautiful dressed-up women, hoping to find their Prince Charming.
Painting of Noravank monastry, church of Sourp Karapeth. 2002
As I said, Armenia and its culture is part of my family life and origins. I was raised in the respect of some traditions and was taught how important cultural heritage and some specificities were for the diaspora. For example, Armenian churches have got a very specific feature, that can astonish Catholics or Protestant in other countries: they are built on a symmetric cross basis, with a conic dome reminding the shape of Great Ararat, and usually composed by volcanic stones.
When I was fourteen, I painted Sourp Karapeth, part of Noravank Monsatry, and gave it to my grand-parents as a present for Christmas. I wish I had visited this charming church during my trip. Located in the gorge at the Amaghu river, it was built in 1216 and houses Prince Smbat Orbelian's mausoleum.
When I was fourteen, I painted Sourp Karapeth, part of Noravank Monsatry, and gave it to my grand-parents as a present for Christmas. I wish I had visited this charming church during my trip. Located in the gorge at the Amaghu river, it was built in 1216 and houses Prince Smbat Orbelian's mausoleum.
