Australia : lost between wild nature and excessive urbanization
"Those who lose dreaming are lost." Aboriginal proverb
My relationship with Australia, this country that is at the heart of so many fantasies in Europe, has been conflicting. At first, I did not especially want to visit this huge isolated island, but it was apparently a "must-see" ; I first visited it through a road-trip and, later, I tried to find an interesting job there but could not ; I tried to figure out a way to make a PhD between Lausanne and Sydney but it turned out to be very difficult to drive an interesting sociological comparison between the two countries in terms of religions, my field of studies. Anyway, my four-month experience there is worth a long and dense blog, since "Straya" (the way Australians call their homeland) brought me a lot of surprises, moments of joy and bewilderment. So let me just take you to this land of contrasts...
Melbourne
A forest of buildings overlooking the green space of a public park
The
road-trip started with Melbourne, capital of the State of Victoria, in the South-East
of Australia. It is also said to be the cultural capital of the country.
Indeed, despite the lack of time I had to visit it properly, I could feel an
intense cultural life running through its streets.
One unmissable thing to admire is the street art expressions Melbourne is famous for. There are many areas in which you can spot those masterpieces: the city center, Brunswick, Abbotsford, Fitzroy... It is said Banksy, the internationally known British street artist, contributed to embellish Melbourne's streets. Try to spot one of his works !
In general, Melbourne is a nice city to wander through, thanks to its delicious mix between modern architecture and more "ancient" - well, don't forget this is not Europe! - buildings from the nineteenth century. For those who are fond of modern architecture and museums, you mustn't miss out the Federation Square. This public square is right in the center of the city and displays various art galleries, museums, and surprising architectural shapes. Another exciting place to go is the Docklands, situated at the western edge of the city. You will see, among other strange things, a sculpture called "Cow Up a Tree". I promise you will spend a fun time on this side of Melbourne.
One unmissable thing to admire is the street art expressions Melbourne is famous for. There are many areas in which you can spot those masterpieces: the city center, Brunswick, Abbotsford, Fitzroy... It is said Banksy, the internationally known British street artist, contributed to embellish Melbourne's streets. Try to spot one of his works !
In general, Melbourne is a nice city to wander through, thanks to its delicious mix between modern architecture and more "ancient" - well, don't forget this is not Europe! - buildings from the nineteenth century. For those who are fond of modern architecture and museums, you mustn't miss out the Federation Square. This public square is right in the center of the city and displays various art galleries, museums, and surprising architectural shapes. Another exciting place to go is the Docklands, situated at the western edge of the city. You will see, among other strange things, a sculpture called "Cow Up a Tree". I promise you will spend a fun time on this side of Melbourne.
The Great Ocean Road
Charming beach, where graceful rocks and ocean are facing each other.
From Melbourne launches the Great Ocean Road (Victoria). Apart from the stunning views this road offers, the feeling of freedom you can experience driving there is overwhelming: driving a camping-car, you will be able to stop wherever it pleases you. I will not talk about all the spots I had the chance to visit on our way, but I made a selection of the most intense landscapes I have in mind.
There are many lookouts and beautiful places to stop by. The only thing you need to do is open your eyes and stop your car. You could have the chance to land on this small beach - which name I forgot - framed by grey and yellow rocks, sculpted by the wind and the salt.
There are many lookouts and beautiful places to stop by. The only thing you need to do is open your eyes and stop your car. You could have the chance to land on this small beach - which name I forgot - framed by grey and yellow rocks, sculpted by the wind and the salt.
The Twelve Apostles: eight of them are still proudly standing, facing the glancing water.
A must-see, however, is the Twelve Apostle: a lookout that will leave you speechless. Eight rocks (primarily twelve) are standing in the sand, facing the ocean like religious figures. Hence the name "Twelve Apostle". This beauty is located in the Port Campbell National Park and shouldn't be missed out for any reason.
Because of the erosion of the waves, four of them already collapsed. We can guess some of their vestiges lying in the water.
Kangaroo Island
The Remarkable Rocks: when Nature turns into a surrealistic sculptor.
The Great Ocean Road dies in the city of Adelaïde - a boring and uninteresting city, apart from its covered market. From there, you can take a ferry and head to Kangaroo Island. I know, I should probably have posted some pictures of koalas, kangaroos, and other cute animals specific to Australia. But a landscape is, to me, way more powerful than an animal picture so I hope you will excuse my decision!
On Kangaroo Island, my favorite place is by far the Flinders Chase National Park where are the Remarkable Rocks. The view is surrealistic. If you are sensitive to the art of Dali, you will definitely be moved by this landscape that seems to be an embodiment of its paintings.
On Kangaroo Island, my favorite place is by far the Flinders Chase National Park where are the Remarkable Rocks. The view is surrealistic. If you are sensitive to the art of Dali, you will definitely be moved by this landscape that seems to be an embodiment of its paintings.
A magic tunnel of trees somewhere on Kangaroo Island.
Apart from specific must-sees like the Remarkable Rocks, the Murray Lagoon, or the Admiral's Arch, the island is simply beautiful in itself. Depending on the roads you take with your rental car, the landscapes are unforgettable, be at the seaside, in the countryside, or into small woods.
I especially liked some straight roads flanked by elegant trees: as you drive under this majestic tunnel, lights and shadows alternate until you feel somewhat dizzy. If you are not the one who's driving, that's the moment where you want to relax and enjoy the view out of the window, without talking
I especially liked some straight roads flanked by elegant trees: as you drive under this majestic tunnel, lights and shadows alternate until you feel somewhat dizzy. If you are not the one who's driving, that's the moment where you want to relax and enjoy the view out of the window, without talking
The Outback
The Outback, also called the Red Center for a feature you can probably guess, is the arid and remote area of Australia. The best thing to do is to stay in Alice Springs and book a three (or more)-day tour to visit the emblematic Uluru (see picture), Kata Tjuta, and Kings Canyon. So let me just succinctly comment these four main points.
Alice Springs is the main city located in the Outback, means in the middle of the desert. It was named after Charles Todd's wife. Charles Todd built the first telegraphic line connecting Adelaïde (South) and Darwin (North). In my opinion, absolutely nothing was of any interest in this city, outside an interesting but sad sociological situation: many aboriginals live in Alice Springs and that was the first time I saw some of them. They are usually drunk, aggressive with people and they stay together. That is the very consequence of the European colonization of the island and the inefficient politics of compensation and/or re-integration. Despite Paul Kiting's speech of reconciliation and apologies to the aboriginal people, there are still much to be done to help them to actually be part of the Australian society, economy, and political life.
Alice Springs is the main city located in the Outback, means in the middle of the desert. It was named after Charles Todd's wife. Charles Todd built the first telegraphic line connecting Adelaïde (South) and Darwin (North). In my opinion, absolutely nothing was of any interest in this city, outside an interesting but sad sociological situation: many aboriginals live in Alice Springs and that was the first time I saw some of them. They are usually drunk, aggressive with people and they stay together. That is the very consequence of the European colonization of the island and the inefficient politics of compensation and/or re-integration. Despite Paul Kiting's speech of reconciliation and apologies to the aboriginal people, there are still much to be done to help them to actually be part of the Australian society, economy, and political life.
The majestic Uluru - or Ayers Rock - under an ever-changing sky.
I was introduced to their ancestral culture when I visited Uluru (or Ayers Rock), the emblematic red rock that you probably have already seen on pictures many times. This beautiful sandstone rock is sacred to the Anangu people, the aboriginals who used to live in the area. Well, some of them still live there but their culture is slowly disappearing and is turning into a bunch of stories that tour-guides tell to their tourists. Or it is poorly reproduced and sold in expensive tourist shops for wealthy and tasteless tourists. I know, I address a lot of criticisms to the aboriginal situation in Australia, although the situation is way better than in the beginning of the last Century (the Aboriginals didn't have the right to vote in many states back then, for example).
Another beautiful rock is Kata Tjuta, a group of impressive red domed rocks. Kata Tjuta is made up of 36 domes covering almost 22 kilometers. It is absolutely breathtaking to stand in the middle of these giants, and especially when they are surrounded by grass. We were lucky enough (or not) to have come during a very rainy summer. Apart from the obvious inconvenience that the rain caused to the trip, the landscape at least was stunning and of a rare beauty. As stunning is the view on King's Canyon, where you will also come across many ghost trees (with very white bark).
Another beautiful rock is Kata Tjuta, a group of impressive red domed rocks. Kata Tjuta is made up of 36 domes covering almost 22 kilometers. It is absolutely breathtaking to stand in the middle of these giants, and especially when they are surrounded by grass. We were lucky enough (or not) to have come during a very rainy summer. Apart from the obvious inconvenience that the rain caused to the trip, the landscape at least was stunning and of a rare beauty. As stunning is the view on King's Canyon, where you will also come across many ghost trees (with very white bark).
East Coast
A hidden place on the riverside: an impression of rain forest.
Next destination: the East coast of Australia, starting with Brisbane, capital of Queensland. Not so many people are fond of Brisbane. And honestly, I am not sure to understand why because it is a lovely city. Despite its 2.2 million of inhabitants, it feels like a small city. Or maybe this is because I didn't have time to visit it properly. It is full of nice little cafés, hidden places, botanical gardens, and charming parks.
To me, the most attracting feature of Brisbane is its river - the Brisbane River - that flows through the city. It allows the tourists and inhabitants to chill near the water or to walk on the riverside. Also, as an iguana-lover, I was very excited to see my first wild-iguanas in one of the parks. But don't be afraid, they are tiny.
To me, the most attracting feature of Brisbane is its river - the Brisbane River - that flows through the city. It allows the tourists and inhabitants to chill near the water or to walk on the riverside. Also, as an iguana-lover, I was very excited to see my first wild-iguanas in one of the parks. But don't be afraid, they are tiny.
Surfers Paradise: a paradise with not a single surfer, because it was too windy.
When one hears about Australia, one usually thinks about kangaroos, Uluru, sharks, and....? Surfers, obviously! To see one not-so-rare specimen (or more) of this species, what is better than going to Surfers Paradise on the Gold Coast, one of the most emblematic destinations for tourists? This city, that looks more like an entertainment place, is certainly more animated during March and April as the Festival is in full swing.
I was a little bit disappointed not to see a single surfer and to have to face a merciless wind. I remember struggling with the sand flying into my face, on my naked legs and in my hair. But this did not prevent me from taking a nice picture showing an unexpected empty beach, where sky and water meet at the horizon, with a forest of buildings behind the scene.
I was a little bit disappointed not to see a single surfer and to have to face a merciless wind. I remember struggling with the sand flying into my face, on my naked legs and in my hair. But this did not prevent me from taking a nice picture showing an unexpected empty beach, where sky and water meet at the horizon, with a forest of buildings behind the scene.
Urunga: by far the most beautiful place I saw in Australia.
On the way from Brisbane to Sydney, you can stop at many camping sites. Some of them are more welcoming than others, some are cleaner than others... But I have to say, one of them was a beautiful surprise and I can but recommend it to you: Urunga. I had never heard of it before, but it turned out to be the most beautiful place I saw in Australia. This sounds exaggerating, but it is true.
Urunga is a small town in New South Wales. Its name is derived from an aboriginal word meaning "long white sand". The town in itself is not that interesting but the seaside is just stunning: sheets of water and sand alternate in a delicious rhythm, balanced with pastel colors. I could have stayed there for days.
Urunga is a small town in New South Wales. Its name is derived from an aboriginal word meaning "long white sand". The town in itself is not that interesting but the seaside is just stunning: sheets of water and sand alternate in a delicious rhythm, balanced with pastel colors. I could have stayed there for days.
Sydney
Sydney Opera House shining under the sun and welcoming the curious travelers.
And there we go, final destination: Sydney. I stayed there for three months, and I flickered between love and hatred for a while. As a huge city and the most populated in Australia, the life in Sydney is full of the inconveniences of big cities: traffic jam, crowded places, public transportation delays, countless high buildings, etc. But I finally learned to love it and, at the end, I kind of miss it. I was also very lucky to meet amazing people who are now dear friends who I terribly miss. Of course, a must-see is the Sydney Harbor where you will be able to admire the blooming and majestic Opera House and the emblematic Harbor Bridge. This latter is best seen from the Royal Botanic Gardens.
Ocean bath in Coogee and, in the distance, a dear friend from the UK. This picture was taken just before we met, and that is why it is so special to me.
Another nice place where you can stroll for a while is Darling Harbor. There, you will come across numerous restaurants (but pretty expensive), shops, and a lovely Chinese garden. Not far from there is the Fish market, where local families gather on the weekends.
Some districts are less touristic and I particularly loved them for some of their original cafés. My favorite ones are: at the first position, the Ampersand Café, in Paddington, which is a vintage bio library-café (just awesome, please do me a favor and try it) and, at the second position, The Grounds of Alexandria, perfect for a brunch.
But Sydney is also famous for its neighborhoods on the ocean-side. To discover Coogee and Bondi for example, you can go for a Coogee-Bondi walk: it is absolutely beautiful, especially if you choose a sunset hour. You will also discover the ocean baths, like the one in Coogee (see picture) or that of Bondi. Enjoy for me please, I am almost jealous.
Some districts are less touristic and I particularly loved them for some of their original cafés. My favorite ones are: at the first position, the Ampersand Café, in Paddington, which is a vintage bio library-café (just awesome, please do me a favor and try it) and, at the second position, The Grounds of Alexandria, perfect for a brunch.
But Sydney is also famous for its neighborhoods on the ocean-side. To discover Coogee and Bondi for example, you can go for a Coogee-Bondi walk: it is absolutely beautiful, especially if you choose a sunset hour. You will also discover the ocean baths, like the one in Coogee (see picture) or that of Bondi. Enjoy for me please, I am almost jealous.
