Myanmar (Burma): Paradise of Five Senses
"Myanmar is the most authentic country I've visited in South-East Asia." How many times have I (you) heard this claim? At least ten times for the last three years. Just a few tourists, no scams, only welcoming people, they said. So I decided to see this with my own eyes. It turned out it was half true, and the half of truth was well worth the other one. I will not tell you that Myanmar feels like a tourists-free paradise, like it used to be when my parents traveled there in the 90s: Burmese tried to touch them because they had never seen white people and it was impossible to speak to them in English. You meet many people from Europe along the way, a few from North America and also from other Asian countries. Tourism agencies, organized tours, and luxurious hotels are already implanted. However, you get to live a boundary-breaking experience. From the hectic city of Yangon to the Middle-Age-like countryside, this country is for sure a very surprising and moving one. By far the most difficult choices of pictures I have faced until now.
Yangon
Block of flats in Yango.
I think you either fall in love with Yangon, or you simply hate it. For me it was love at first sight. Between its majestic colonial architecture, its shiny temples and its living streets, the city cannot leave you indifferent. This is where all my European references dissolved. At every corner of street you will come across something intriguing or surprising. The senses of smell, taste, hearing, and sight are constantly challenged. The sidewalks (if there are any at all) are full of small stalls: an old man selling papayas, a mother and her daughter cooking noodles, a row of stands offering hardware products. You should not be afraid of the crowd though, as hundreds of people mill the streets, either walking or sitting on plastic stools, especially on Maha Bandula street. This is a must do!
If you are not afraid of crowded places and like markets, you should definitely go to Bogyoke market. Although it is visited by tourists, you will find delicious fresh mango juices, beautiful stones, wooden objects, and fabrics. More quiet is a stroll on Merchant street to admire the crumpling colonial buildings: although colonialism is a sad part of Myanmar history, its architectural heritage is splendid. Allow me just a quick historical detour here : Burma (former name for Myanmar) was colonized by Britain and under its rule for more than a century (1824-1948). It became an independent Republic in 1948, but it fell under military control in 1962 after the coup led by General Ne Win. From then, Burma became Myanmar, and civil wars are now a frequent feature of the sociopolitical landscape. The fight for democracy is led by Aung San Suu Kyi, who went through a painful house arrest for 15 years. She is now free and her party got elected in Parliament in November 2015. Although the military forces have still the control over every political decision, we can see a change: people feel more free to express their political views, and elections have been successfully held.
If you are not afraid of crowded places and like markets, you should definitely go to Bogyoke market. Although it is visited by tourists, you will find delicious fresh mango juices, beautiful stones, wooden objects, and fabrics. More quiet is a stroll on Merchant street to admire the crumpling colonial buildings: although colonialism is a sad part of Myanmar history, its architectural heritage is splendid. Allow me just a quick historical detour here : Burma (former name for Myanmar) was colonized by Britain and under its rule for more than a century (1824-1948). It became an independent Republic in 1948, but it fell under military control in 1962 after the coup led by General Ne Win. From then, Burma became Myanmar, and civil wars are now a frequent feature of the sociopolitical landscape. The fight for democracy is led by Aung San Suu Kyi, who went through a painful house arrest for 15 years. She is now free and her party got elected in Parliament in November 2015. Although the military forces have still the control over every political decision, we can see a change: people feel more free to express their political views, and elections have been successfully held.
Laughters were heard on Pansodan street.
My hidden secret in Yangon? I remember a small street restaurant, full of local people only, that cooked stuffed palm leaves and curries: Pansodan street. It is surrounded with second-hand books stalls. There, I shot my first picture of children: one was wearing a shirt, too long for him, and the other one was a monk, wearing a kesaya (the red robe). They were both laughing and pushing each other, not caring about what was around. This vision moved me because so many things were, in my European conditioned mind, incompatible: being a monk and being a child; being a monk and loudly laughing in the street; being a monk and loudly laughing with a layperson... Myanmar is an eternal well of surprises and life lessons.
On another sociological note, another interesting part of Yangon is its ethnic mosaic: along your walks, you will spot mosques, Hindu temples with their hundreds of gods statutes, and of course, many Pagodas.
On another sociological note, another interesting part of Yangon is its ethnic mosaic: along your walks, you will spot mosques, Hindu temples with their hundreds of gods statutes, and of course, many Pagodas.
Peace and gold at the Pagoda Shwedagon.
The most impressive Pagoda of Yangon is by far the Pagoda Shwedagon, on Singuttara Hill that dominates the city. With a height of 99 meters, covered with golden leaves, it is the most sacred Buddhist pagoda in the country. Bare-feet, people walk around it, on the white and fresh stoned floor. Tourists from Europe or America, Asian pilgrims, and Burmese people meet for a few hours. The best time to visit it is at dawn or at dusk, when the sun invades the place in a golden light.
Something I did not expected struck me, and not only on the Pagoda Shwedagon but during the entire trip in Myanmar: the religiosity of people in this country (or maybe in South-East Asia in general). Back in Europe, we often talk about the religiosity of Muslims, that is supposedly extreme or "archaic" in its forms and intensity. But, my word, Buddhists invest so many parts of their existence with religion. And they start at a very young age. I have seen tens of children in kesaya in the streets of Mandalay, Yangon, on the countryside and in Bagan. Women are not allowed to enter some spaces in Buddhist temples. I am not saying it is wrong or it is good, but just that Buddhism is maybe idealized or misunderstood in European countries (among others). It is extremely ritualized, the religious sphere is generalized, rituals involve a sexist vision of the sacred, and religion affiliation is imposed very early in life.
Something I did not expected struck me, and not only on the Pagoda Shwedagon but during the entire trip in Myanmar: the religiosity of people in this country (or maybe in South-East Asia in general). Back in Europe, we often talk about the religiosity of Muslims, that is supposedly extreme or "archaic" in its forms and intensity. But, my word, Buddhists invest so many parts of their existence with religion. And they start at a very young age. I have seen tens of children in kesaya in the streets of Mandalay, Yangon, on the countryside and in Bagan. Women are not allowed to enter some spaces in Buddhist temples. I am not saying it is wrong or it is good, but just that Buddhism is maybe idealized or misunderstood in European countries (among others). It is extremely ritualized, the religious sphere is generalized, rituals involve a sexist vision of the sacred, and religion affiliation is imposed very early in life.
Mandalay
Any visitors of Mandalya Hill will make a few friends along the stairs.
After Yangon I headed to Mandalay. To me, the city was less charming and rich than the first one. But it still contains lovely treasures worth the stop. First, it is worth visiting the Mandalay Palace, the royal residence of the last monarchy in Myanmar. Surrounded with water, you can walk around its walls: you will catch sight of the Palace's delicately decorated rooftops.
Then, take a cab and your courage, to go to the foot of Mandalay Hill and climb it barefoot. Up there, you will come across the famous families of macaques. They are not dangerous, but do not try to pet them! The walk up the top of the hill is an amazing experience. Between each stairways are temples containing Buddha statutes. Sometimes standing, sometimes sitting, short or tall, these statutes give the impression of a peaceful and unrealistic presence. If your calculation is good, you will maybe be lucky enough to arrive during sunset. The last temple being covered with shining and colorful shards, the sun-rays reflects on the walls in thousands of little lights. The hill dominates Mandalay that stretches far away under the amazed eyes of the visitors.
Then, take a cab and your courage, to go to the foot of Mandalay Hill and climb it barefoot. Up there, you will come across the famous families of macaques. They are not dangerous, but do not try to pet them! The walk up the top of the hill is an amazing experience. Between each stairways are temples containing Buddha statutes. Sometimes standing, sometimes sitting, short or tall, these statutes give the impression of a peaceful and unrealistic presence. If your calculation is good, you will maybe be lucky enough to arrive during sunset. The last temple being covered with shining and colorful shards, the sun-rays reflects on the walls in thousands of little lights. The hill dominates Mandalay that stretches far away under the amazed eyes of the visitors.
Eggs, pasta, crepes, skewers... there is something for everyone's taste!
At the foot of Mandalay hill, when I came back from my inspiring walk uphill, tens of food stands had gathered: it was the Festival of Light. Regarding food, I know it is not advised to try very local food, especially on the street. But I never got sick, even though I tried salads (tomato and avocado salads are must-does). The best dishes are cooked in the street: you will be disappointed in luxurious restaurants. Another great thing to do is eating at a street barbecue. Stalls display skewers of meat, fish, or vegetables that you chose and place into a basket. They cook it on the grill and bring them to you. It is simply delicious. One last lovely thing to do in Mandalay, apart from visiting pagodas, is to see how they make gold leaves. Small artisanal factories are open to visitors in the Gold-Pounders district.
Amarapura
Mysterious atmosphere at sunset in this ancient capital. U-Bein Bridge, Amarapura.
Amarapura is a former capital founded in 1783 (it is hard to follow how the country changed its capitals over the centuries) located at less than a thirty-minute drive from Mandalay. Its most famous monument is without a doubt the U-Bein Bridge. Now a major tourist attraction - unfortunately indeed -, the bridge was built with remaining teak wood columns after the transfer of the capital to Mandalay. You literally need to fight to get a boat and a driver to be able to go into the water and admire the bridge at sunset (or sunrise if you are braver than I am). After tiring and endless discussions and bargaining where you will inevitably end up paying too much, you will be rewarded because the view is well-worth the effort. The peace of the water, the slow rhythm of the boat, the sun going down with calm... I felt out of space and time for a while. Then you can walk on the U-Bein bridge, meeting young monks speaking with tourists, lovers strolling hand in hand, and spotting a lonely wanderer crossing the river in the shadow of an abandoned palace.
Bagan
Happiness and colorful balloons are floating in the air of Bagan
Bagan is an ancient capital of the Kingdom of Pagan, first one to unify the surrounding regions that will later constitute Myanmar (form 9th to 13th Centuries). My advise for the voyage from Mandalay to Bagan is to take the boat. Because of bad planning, I missed the local boat, that takes 15 hours to get there and took the express boat (8 hours) instead, full of tourists only. I personally think the local one would be the best option since it stops in many villages, offers an insight of the local customs, and allows to meet with Burmese people.
Then comes the choice of the place where to stay in Bagan: Old Bagan, New Bagan, or Nyaung U. The first one is charming but expensive, the second one is cheaper but not very authentic, and the last one is cheap but a bit far from the pagodas. Make your own choice! I chose New Bagan, since it is well located and not too expensive. I was however surprised not to see many Burmese apart form the hotels and restaurants employees. You will come across more local people if you visit one of the few villages around Bagan or if you go to Mount Popa that is surrounded by a small city full of macaques, cats, and dogs. The view is also worth the voyage, as the plain stretches over tens of kilometers.
Then comes the choice of the place where to stay in Bagan: Old Bagan, New Bagan, or Nyaung U. The first one is charming but expensive, the second one is cheaper but not very authentic, and the last one is cheap but a bit far from the pagodas. Make your own choice! I chose New Bagan, since it is well located and not too expensive. I was however surprised not to see many Burmese apart form the hotels and restaurants employees. You will come across more local people if you visit one of the few villages around Bagan or if you go to Mount Popa that is surrounded by a small city full of macaques, cats, and dogs. The view is also worth the voyage, as the plain stretches over tens of kilometers.
Three of the 3000 pagodas of Bagan proudly standing in the golden light.
The famous picture of hot-air balloons floating over the rising pagodas is known to everybody, I believe. But if you want to avoid the 330-dollar asked by the Australian company that runs the balloon business (an elitist price that only rich tourists can afford, according to me), you can just go on top of one of the 3000 pagodas and wait for the sunrise. The view is simply majestic, unique, unforgettable. The archaeological site of Bagan offers other opportunities to admire this mysterious landscape. All you need to do is rent an electronic motorcycle and get lost in its 50 km2. Do not forget to visit a lacquer workshop though, the artisanal specialty of Myanmar.
From Inle Lake to Kalaw
Entire villages are "floating" on the peaceful water of Inle Lake.
After seeing Bagan, I thought nothing more could reach the level of amazement I felt in this magic area. But I was wrong. Very wrong actually. Inle Lake simply took my breath away, especially its floating farms and villages. You can go from your hotel to the lake’s shore by bicycle. This allows you to enjoy the beautiful landscape that spreads around Inle, with its mountains, corn fields, and small villages. Then, find a guide (they are usually very young and speak enough English to have nice conversations about their ways of living in the region) and board his (yes, no women there!) embarkation. As you leave the shore, you progressively enter an out-of-this world atmosphere. Whole villages and farms are built on the water. So you pass by wooden dentist cabinets, houses, schools, temples, hospitals… But the most impressive part was, to me, their “floating gardens”. Unrealistic and so poetic.
A buffalo pulling a cart on the countryside, somewhere between Kalaw and Inle.
If you are looking for more “authentic” experiences in Myanmar (though you will always end up in a more or less touristic system), you should definitely try the Inle-Kalaw trek… or Kalaw-Inle. I felt transported to another space and time, somewhere in the 19th Century with a very unstable weather. During the day, a young Burmese guided us through the countryside, which offers an insight to the way people cultivate the land: mostly with their bare hands or a plough helped with buffaloes.
There are of course other stunning things to see (and learn) on the Burmese countryside: you can come across very poor but incredibly welcoming villages, go through peaceful Buddhist monasteries, or taste unknown dishes.
There are of course other stunning things to see (and learn) on the Burmese countryside: you can come across very poor but incredibly welcoming villages, go through peaceful Buddhist monasteries, or taste unknown dishes.
Hundreds of children will smile at you and make you smile along the way.
The most touching experience I had in Myanmar was by far the night spent at a family's place, in an isolated village. They do not dare eating nor spend time with tourists (they usually do not understand English). But they do their best to make you feel well and the children pop their heads through the doors with curiosity, usually translated into bursts of laughter. Homemade food is cooked in the evening and early in the morning. As they are mostly farmers, they wake up very early, so that when you wake up at 7 a.m. they have actually been working for a few hours.
It is worth visiting the villages before dinner to have the chance to grasp a small part of their special inhabitants. As you walk between the houses built with wood and bamboo, you will see buffaloes mixed with chickens in closes, kids playing with bamboos or helping their parents, meet ever-smiling people... Well, this is not an adjective that applies to all people in Myanmar, but let's switch to my final thoughts section to go into this point.
It is worth visiting the villages before dinner to have the chance to grasp a small part of their special inhabitants. As you walk between the houses built with wood and bamboo, you will see buffaloes mixed with chickens in closes, kids playing with bamboos or helping their parents, meet ever-smiling people... Well, this is not an adjective that applies to all people in Myanmar, but let's switch to my final thoughts section to go into this point.
Final Thoughts
I will end my short account about Myanmar with a few words on the beautiful people who live there. Until now, I never uploaded pictures with people. But, in Myanmar, it gave me the impression they magnify the country, they make Bagan vibrate, they give colors and flavors to the streets in Yangon. Most of them smile, constantly, to us, tourists, and make their best to please us. But, some of them (very few) show hostility to tourists, but a hostility that I can understand. Many times I felt ashamed, because you can feel a kind of implicit hierarchy to their disadvantage built between you and a merchant, a guide, a waiter... But the most difficult times I had was actually with my camera. Taking a picture of someone with a camera worth his salary for a year (maybe more), being a white and free European, is an act I had real issues with. When they were smiling or laughing at me, I dared, but otherwise I preferred to take pictures from behind, which made, I think, beautiful and more respectful images. Burmese people and their splendid country deserve respect. I sincerely hope tourism will keep growing but with a sense of value that is unfortunately absent from other countries in South-East Asia.
All my love to the people from Myanmar...
