The United States of America: When Fiction Meets Reality, and Vice & Versa
"Most folks are as happy as they make up their minds to be". Abraham Lincoln
The sensation a European feels as he treads the New Continent for the first time is probably the opposite feeling Cristobal Columbus must have experienced: while the later discovered unknown and infinite landscapes inhabited by American Indians, the former experiences with amazement the materialization of well-known pictures often marked by architectural density and human crowds. So many "Oh it's like in the movies!" ; "It reminds me this famous photo" ; "Look, the bar where Friends got recorded!" ; etc. But, as you will read, I also thought and said so many times "it is totally different from what is said in Europe" or "I really didn't expect Americans to be like this". I love the exhilarating emotion when clichés are breaking ... or confirmed.
Of course, it is still possible to immerse in beautiful natural environments, where no houses nor human beings are to be seen for miles and miles around. But this is usually not where a journey in the U.S. would start. Mine started in the crowded city of New York. I spent time in the U.S., both as a tourist and as an (ephemeral) inhabitant. In either situation, these stays offered me unique sensations and provided me with irreplaceable tools for life.
The sensation a European feels as he treads the New Continent for the first time is probably the opposite feeling Cristobal Columbus must have experienced: while the later discovered unknown and infinite landscapes inhabited by American Indians, the former experiences with amazement the materialization of well-known pictures often marked by architectural density and human crowds. So many "Oh it's like in the movies!" ; "It reminds me this famous photo" ; "Look, the bar where Friends got recorded!" ; etc. But, as you will read, I also thought and said so many times "it is totally different from what is said in Europe" or "I really didn't expect Americans to be like this". I love the exhilarating emotion when clichés are breaking ... or confirmed.
Of course, it is still possible to immerse in beautiful natural environments, where no houses nor human beings are to be seen for miles and miles around. But this is usually not where a journey in the U.S. would start. Mine started in the crowded city of New York. I spent time in the U.S., both as a tourist and as an (ephemeral) inhabitant. In either situation, these stays offered me unique sensations and provided me with irreplaceable tools for life.
New York City seen from the height of the Empire State Building
When I first entered the Country of Martin Luther King I was doing a one-month road trip in North America and arrived by train in New York City, after eighteen long and sleep-lacking hours, straight from Montreal. The tiredness did not undermine the happiness to be in the Big Apple and did not prevent me from visiting most of the must-dos.
I went up the Empire State Building, which vista gives you an idea of how big and dense the city is. You can even catch the sight of some emblematic buildings, such as the Flatiron Building, at the intersection of the 5th Avenue and Broadway. Try to find it on the picture, it looks rather small and lost in this urban jungle...
I went up the Empire State Building, which vista gives you an idea of how big and dense the city is. You can even catch the sight of some emblematic buildings, such as the Flatiron Building, at the intersection of the 5th Avenue and Broadway. Try to find it on the picture, it looks rather small and lost in this urban jungle...
The Statue of Liberty proudly holding the Declaration of Independence
If you want to escape the gray stones of
the city, you have two options: either go for a walk in the green Central Park
and meet up with the squirrels, or get on a boat and get on a blue journey to
Ellis Island and Liberty Island.
Ellis Island is particularly important in the U.S., since it has been the main entry for immigrants to the country, from 1892 to 1954. As for Liberty Island, it is the dwelling of the Statue of Liberty, offered by the French in 1886 and designed by the sculptor Bartholdi. It represents Libertas, the Roman goddess of Freedom. Now commonly conceived as the symbol of the United States, it was more specifically envisioned as a memorial to the Independence declared on 4th July 1776.
If you step onto the Island, you will be able to see a plaque placed by Freemasons on the cornerstone. It is also a good opportunity to see NYC from an outside perspective, standing still by the water of the Hudson River.
Ellis Island is particularly important in the U.S., since it has been the main entry for immigrants to the country, from 1892 to 1954. As for Liberty Island, it is the dwelling of the Statue of Liberty, offered by the French in 1886 and designed by the sculptor Bartholdi. It represents Libertas, the Roman goddess of Freedom. Now commonly conceived as the symbol of the United States, it was more specifically envisioned as a memorial to the Independence declared on 4th July 1776.
If you step onto the Island, you will be able to see a plaque placed by Freemasons on the cornerstone. It is also a good opportunity to see NYC from an outside perspective, standing still by the water of the Hudson River.
Midnight in Time Square
You can walk through the former industrial area of SoHo , fight the temptationsof the smells of food in Little Italy, forget that you are in North America in Chinatown, or go after the ancient Bohemian spirit in Greenwich Village.
But at some point, the night will fall and Manhattan will robe itself with a totally new atmosphere. If you are, like I was, shopping in some store in Times Square just before dusk and then go out without realizing it was already getting late, then you will experience a very strange light feeling: your brain realizes it is night, because a roof of black sky is hovering over you, but your eyes will see the floor and the surrounding buildings in a very bright light. Welcome to Times Square by night; all the screens are on; an electrical luminosity floods the place.
It is time to embrace the American culture and watch a musical on Broadway. The Lion King, Wicked, West Side Story... The choice is hard but worthwhile.
But at some point, the night will fall and Manhattan will robe itself with a totally new atmosphere. If you are, like I was, shopping in some store in Times Square just before dusk and then go out without realizing it was already getting late, then you will experience a very strange light feeling: your brain realizes it is night, because a roof of black sky is hovering over you, but your eyes will see the floor and the surrounding buildings in a very bright light. Welcome to Times Square by night; all the screens are on; an electrical luminosity floods the place.
It is time to embrace the American culture and watch a musical on Broadway. The Lion King, Wicked, West Side Story... The choice is hard but worthwhile.
View from Alcatraz after a wave just broke before my camer lense.
Who never heard of Alcatraz, the jail where Al Capone spent the rest of his life? San Francisco is famous partly because of this dark side of American history, when the mafia ruled in some of its cities. You can still wander on Alcatraz Island and visit the prison. You will learn about funny and sad stories of prisoners who tried to escape. You will imagine how painful it was to live there, feeling the cold and humidity. But you will also admire a nice view of San Francisco.
A more cheerful side of Fog city is certainly the harbor area, where it is hard to decide between a ride in a boat to see seals, a walk on Pier 39 where little shops and restaurants are fighting for your attention, having a fishy lunch in Fisherman's Wharf, and a tour in the huge Aquarium of the Bay. Then have a ride in a cable car, you will recognize many views you have seen in movies and TV shows. If you decide to go deeper into the hilly city, you can feel this sweet mix between a very American atmosphere and European aesthetic.
A more cheerful side of Fog city is certainly the harbor area, where it is hard to decide between a ride in a boat to see seals, a walk on Pier 39 where little shops and restaurants are fighting for your attention, having a fishy lunch in Fisherman's Wharf, and a tour in the huge Aquarium of the Bay. Then have a ride in a cable car, you will recognize many views you have seen in movies and TV shows. If you decide to go deeper into the hilly city, you can feel this sweet mix between a very American atmosphere and European aesthetic.
But Fog city - eloquent nickname - is also well-known for its Golden Gate Bridge, which name derives from the California Gold Rush of 1849. Registered as one of the Wonders of the Modern World by the American Society of Civil Engineers, it was built between 1933 and 1937. It is probably the most photographed bridge in the world; anyone who has stood in front of this giant and red iron creature jetting over the water will not be surprised by this statistics. On a foggy day it gives a mysterious and disquieting ambiance surrounding the landscape. On a clear day, its reddish color glows intensely and stands out of the blue waters and sky. But when the sun sets, the vertical beams of lights sharpen the bridge's quoins and edges, giving it orange - or should I say golden? - shades on one side.
San Francisco and its famous Golden Gate Bridge on a not-fuzzy day.
The bridge can be seen from both sides, and even from "inside" by day or by night if you walk on it. It will seem very small and lost in the immensity of the area if you go up the Ring Mountain and gaze at San Francisco from above. If it is warm enough, take your towels and swimsuit to Baker Beach, where you will have the Golden Gate Bridge as a backcloth of your seaside day. In other words, San Francisco offers an incredible diversity of environments and atmospheres, swinging between North American and European features, and between waters, mountains, beaches, and urban areas.
The University of Michigan's football stadium and its 110.000 supporters.
Let us now get out of the busy life of big cities and enter the unique and famous world of the American university campus. It is a small but dense universe, with both well-know and hidden aspects. This intriguing microcosm opened to me when I was still a student and had the once-in-a-lifetime chance to study at the University of Michigan, in the small city called Ann Arbor.
So many "it's just like in the movies" did I blurt out as I discovered the campus life: the red cups at frat parties (interesting experiment I made once, but I did not feel the need of reiterating it); the drinking games at house parties; the unconditional support of students to their University teams. This support crystallizes in the football stadium of Michigan. It can house 110.000 people (which makes it the biggest football stadium in the world) and is always full of students dressed in blue and yellow, singing and screaming in a synchronized way.
But my stay at the University of Michigan broke as many clichés as it confirmed other ones. As a European I had some apprehensions of going to the US (I apologize to the US citizens who are reading this section, but I will put things right in the following sentences), expecting to be surrounded by obesity, to come across some stupidity, and to meet Bushy opinions. But life nicely and fortunately corrected my mistakes and misjudgments. Instead, I met some of the most hard-working and humanly involved people of my life, bumped into numerous fit girls and guys going to the gym between classes, and realized I lived on a campus with a strong and proud Democratic history. On top of that, and this applies to non-student Americans as well, I have felt at home very quickly thanks to the myriad of smiles, welcoming words, and friendly talks people addressed me during my stay. Thank you.
So many "it's just like in the movies" did I blurt out as I discovered the campus life: the red cups at frat parties (interesting experiment I made once, but I did not feel the need of reiterating it); the drinking games at house parties; the unconditional support of students to their University teams. This support crystallizes in the football stadium of Michigan. It can house 110.000 people (which makes it the biggest football stadium in the world) and is always full of students dressed in blue and yellow, singing and screaming in a synchronized way.
But my stay at the University of Michigan broke as many clichés as it confirmed other ones. As a European I had some apprehensions of going to the US (I apologize to the US citizens who are reading this section, but I will put things right in the following sentences), expecting to be surrounded by obesity, to come across some stupidity, and to meet Bushy opinions. But life nicely and fortunately corrected my mistakes and misjudgments. Instead, I met some of the most hard-working and humanly involved people of my life, bumped into numerous fit girls and guys going to the gym between classes, and realized I lived on a campus with a strong and proud Democratic history. On top of that, and this applies to non-student Americans as well, I have felt at home very quickly thanks to the myriad of smiles, welcoming words, and friendly talks people addressed me during my stay. Thank you.
The Gateaway to Freedom, facing Windsor. Detroit
A Thirty minute drive from Ann Arbor away is located Detroit, still in the State of Michigan. Its two nicknames explain the past of this forgotten city: Motor city, referring to its former place as the World's center for automobile industry; and Motown, name of the famous record company, now owned by Universal Music Group, founded by the producer and songwriter Berry Gordy Jr.
A City of past industrial growth and musical heritage, Detroit has now turned into a ghost town. Its decline, both on the economic and demographic levels, finally led to its bankruptcy in July 2013, despite the revitalization project. As I wandered through its streets I only met a few people and sad buildings that desperately call for restoration. But, much to my surprise, there remain worthy vestiges of the past. For example, the Gateway to Freedom monument stands on the shore of Detroit River and faces Windsor (Canada), commemorating the escape of fugitive slaves helped by a Detroiter. This highlights the position Detroit had in the abolitionist battle in the 19th Century: it was a pivotal city in the Underground Railroad, an informal network helping slaves to flee the country.
An impressive feature of Detroit is certainly the sharp contrast between wealthy areas and poor neighborhoods. While the former contain spacious single-floor houses, the later display derelict buildings and empty streets, where locals advise you to lock the doors of your car and never to stop. The situation is so extreme, that even electricians or policemen do not dare to go in these places. I let you imagine the situation of these areas.
A City of past industrial growth and musical heritage, Detroit has now turned into a ghost town. Its decline, both on the economic and demographic levels, finally led to its bankruptcy in July 2013, despite the revitalization project. As I wandered through its streets I only met a few people and sad buildings that desperately call for restoration. But, much to my surprise, there remain worthy vestiges of the past. For example, the Gateway to Freedom monument stands on the shore of Detroit River and faces Windsor (Canada), commemorating the escape of fugitive slaves helped by a Detroiter. This highlights the position Detroit had in the abolitionist battle in the 19th Century: it was a pivotal city in the Underground Railroad, an informal network helping slaves to flee the country.
An impressive feature of Detroit is certainly the sharp contrast between wealthy areas and poor neighborhoods. While the former contain spacious single-floor houses, the later display derelict buildings and empty streets, where locals advise you to lock the doors of your car and never to stop. The situation is so extreme, that even electricians or policemen do not dare to go in these places. I let you imagine the situation of these areas.
The colorful Venice beach in California.
If you are in need of shiny weather, spotless skies, bright colors for your eyes and peace for your mind, Venice Beach is the place you should head to. Now part of Los Angeles, it was formerly a beach resort town built by a tobacco millionaire.
This very hippie-looking area is a promise of surprises. Between the yoga classes on the beach, the countless vendors of hand-made jewels, the gaily-colored houses, the artists working outdoors, and the cunning sunset on the Ocean, it is hard to focus.
From there, it is easy to go to Universal Studios or Disney World by bus or by car: it is high time to forget what "being adult" means and to give way to delightful childlike euphori.
This very hippie-looking area is a promise of surprises. Between the yoga classes on the beach, the countless vendors of hand-made jewels, the gaily-colored houses, the artists working outdoors, and the cunning sunset on the Ocean, it is hard to focus.
From there, it is easy to go to Universal Studios or Disney World by bus or by car: it is high time to forget what "being adult" means and to give way to delightful childlike euphori.
In winter, a cold wind finds its way through a forest of high and old buildings spreading around the Chicago River. Chicago (State of Illinois)
In History, we have seen large-scale disasters permanently knocking down the culture and population of an area. But sometimes they surprisingly create an impulse, a burst of energy and innovation. Chicago experienced the second type of disaster. The city burnt under the flames of the Great Chicago Fire in 1875, but went through the most important building boom in U.S. history. Chicago is a city where old and brand new buildings and bridges now cohabit, Chicago should be a destination for architectural pilgrimage. It is possible to admire its old--fashioned and modern buildings either from the streets, or from the river by boat. I wonder why no one came up with "Phoenix City" as a nickname. Instead, people call it Windy City (mysterious nickname that a lot of different theories try to explain) or Second City. In the Native Miami-Illinois language, Chicago means "wild onion", referring to the abundance of this vegetable growing in the area.
Marylin Monroe's statue.
Beside its architectural features, Chicago housed important cultural and social movements.
Indeed, a crucial part of the fight for Civil Rights and the end of discrimination of Afro-Americans was held in Chicago, known as the Chicago Freedom Movement: marches, rallies, speeches, and demands were led by Martin Luther King in 1966. A reminiscence of this glorious side of American history stands in the Martin Luther King Jr. Drive, street renamed in 1968.
Then, Jazz musicians from New Orleans migrated to Chicago at the beginning of the 20th Century, among which was the famous trumpeter and singer Louis Armstrong. They developed a new Jazz style, called "Chicago Jazz". This musical legacy is still palpable, since Jazz music can be heard in cafés, stores, and bars. This sharply contrasted with the habitual (and wearisome) mainstream music environment my ears were accustomed to when I meet up with friends in European cafés.
Indeed, a crucial part of the fight for Civil Rights and the end of discrimination of Afro-Americans was held in Chicago, known as the Chicago Freedom Movement: marches, rallies, speeches, and demands were led by Martin Luther King in 1966. A reminiscence of this glorious side of American history stands in the Martin Luther King Jr. Drive, street renamed in 1968.
Then, Jazz musicians from New Orleans migrated to Chicago at the beginning of the 20th Century, among which was the famous trumpeter and singer Louis Armstrong. They developed a new Jazz style, called "Chicago Jazz". This musical legacy is still palpable, since Jazz music can be heard in cafés, stores, and bars. This sharply contrasted with the habitual (and wearisome) mainstream music environment my ears were accustomed to when I meet up with friends in European cafés.
Reflections on the Cloud Gate on a cloudy day.
Other artistic artifacts are to be admired - or played with – in the Windy City. One of the most popular ones is certainly the Cloud Gate, created by the Indian-born British sculptor, Anish Kapoor, in 2006. Also known as "The Bean" because of its particular shape, this sculpture made of a continuous mirror offers distorted reflections of the surroundings. Tourists are turning around, camera in hand, taking pictures in groups, alone, standing, lying on the floor, or even jumping. If you enter it, you will find yourself under a curved roof of mirrors, multiplying the black dots of the crowd around you.
If you are interested in Art like I am, the Art Institute of Chicago is a place you want to visit. Without knowing it, I came across numerous well-known paintings and discovered artists who were unknown to me. As you wander through the different rooms, you will see, among others, the famous American Gothic by Grant Wood (now even more famous because of the opening title of Desperate Housewives) and Edward Hopper's Nighthawks. I especially loved a painting of Alberto Pasini, Circassian Cavalry Awainting for their Commanding Officer at the Door of a Byzantine Monument. Memory pf the Orient, that I later painted after I went back to the University of Michigan (picture to come) and the African Chief painted by Mariano Fortuny. In other words, it was definitely worth it and I had my artistic quota for the rest of the week.
As you probably realized through my enthusiastic writing in this section, my experience in the United States was full of surprises and amazements. I learned a lot about the country itself, that is especially rich geographically and dynamic in so many aspects. I also realized how many the misconceptions and misjudgments Europeans have towards America, which I used to share before my stay.
If you are interested in Art like I am, the Art Institute of Chicago is a place you want to visit. Without knowing it, I came across numerous well-known paintings and discovered artists who were unknown to me. As you wander through the different rooms, you will see, among others, the famous American Gothic by Grant Wood (now even more famous because of the opening title of Desperate Housewives) and Edward Hopper's Nighthawks. I especially loved a painting of Alberto Pasini, Circassian Cavalry Awainting for their Commanding Officer at the Door of a Byzantine Monument. Memory pf the Orient, that I later painted after I went back to the University of Michigan (picture to come) and the African Chief painted by Mariano Fortuny. In other words, it was definitely worth it and I had my artistic quota for the rest of the week.
As you probably realized through my enthusiastic writing in this section, my experience in the United States was full of surprises and amazements. I learned a lot about the country itself, that is especially rich geographically and dynamic in so many aspects. I also realized how many the misconceptions and misjudgments Europeans have towards America, which I used to share before my stay.
